Getting There (Amman to Dead Sea)
The Dead Sea sits about an hour southwest of Amman. I rented a car, which gave me the freedom to stop whenever I wanted. The drive itself was half the
experience—watching the landscape shift from city sprawl to desert, then suddenly dropping down, down, down toward
that shimmer of blue.
- Bus: You can also grab a JETT bus from Amman if you’re on a budget. It’s cheap and drops you at the main hotel strip.
- Tour: Book a day tour if you want someone else to handle the logistics.
Why the Dead Sea Feels Like Another Planet
Before I floated face-up like a starfish, I wanted to understand what I was getting into. The Dead Sea isn’t just salty—it’s absurdly salty. Almost ten times saltier than the ocean. That’s why you float. Your body can’t sink.
It’s also 400 meters below sea level. Standing on the shore, I was at the lowest land point on Earth. The air felt thick and heavy, almost syrupy in the heat.
Then there’s the mud. Black, mineral-rich, and supposedly great for your skin. I wasn’t sure if that was true or just marketing, but I was willing to find out. The area has history, too. Herod the Great came here to relax. Cleopatra used the mud. It’s mentioned in the Bible. People have been soaking in this strange, salty water for thousands of years.
My First Time in the Water
I walked down to the shore mid-morning. The sun was already brutal—dry, relentless heat that made my skin feel tight.
The water looked calm. Almost too calm. I waded in slowly, and within seconds, my feet lifted off the ground. I didn’t float—I popped up like a cork. It felt ridiculous. I tried to stand, but my legs kept shooting up in front of me. I gave up and just leaned back.
Floating on my back, staring up at the cloudless sky, I felt weightless. It was quiet except for the occasional splash from other people figuring out how to not flail around. Then I made the mistake of splashing. A tiny bit of water hit my lips. It tasted like battery acid mixed with regret. I kept my mouth clamped shut after that.
Note: After about 15 minutes, I got out. Any longer and the salt starts to feel overwhelming—like your skin is shrinking.
The Mud Ritual
Next up: the mud. I found a patch of it near the shore and scooped up handfuls of the thick, black gunk. It was cool and strangely satisfying to smear all over my arms, legs, face.
I let it dry in the sun for about 20 minutes. It tightened on my skin, pulling slightly as it hardened. I looked like a swamp creature. Other tourists were doing the same, so at least I wasn’t alone in my ridiculousness. When I rinsed it off in the sea, my skin felt smooth. Like, really smooth. Whether that was the minerals or just exfoliation from scrubbing off dried mud, I don’t know. But I’ll take it.
Where to Stay
- Resorts: Most people stay at one of the big resorts lining the shore. They’re nice—pools, spas, direct beach access, restaurants. Everything you need without leaving the property.
- Guesthouses: I stayed at a smaller guesthouse about 20 minutes inland. It was quieter, cheaper, and the owner made dinner every night—simple, home-cooked Jordanian food that tasted better than anything at the resort buffets.
Things to Do Beyond Floating
Spa Treatments
The resorts offer every spa treatment imaginable using Dead Sea mud and minerals. I skipped them because I’m not really a spa person, but if that’s your thing, go for it.
Hike Wadi Mujib
If you’re visiting in the right season (spring or early fall), Wadi Mujib is worth the detour. It’s a canyon with hiking trails and waterfalls. Some trails involve wading through water and a bit of scrambling. It’s a good way to break up all the floating and lounging.
Visit Lot’s Cave
This biblical site is nearby. Whether you’re religious or just into history, it’s interesting. The views from the area are great, too.
When to Go
I visited in April, and the weather was perfect. Warm, but not punishing.
- Summer (June to August): Gets dangerously hot—40°C and up. You can still go, but you’ll be melting.
- Winter: Cooler and still sunny, though the water might feel cold.
- Best Bet: Spring and Fall are the sweet spots.
Tips for Your Visit
- Bring water shoes. The salt crystals on the shore are sharp and crunchy. Walking barefoot is uncomfortable.
- Don’t shave or wax the day before. The salt will find every tiny cut and make you regret your life choices.
- Protect your eyes. Seriously. If you get Dead Sea water in your eyes, it burns like nothing else. Bring goggles if you’re clumsy.
- Wear old jewelry or none at all. The salt can tarnish metal.
- Rinse off thoroughly. The salt will dry your skin out if you don’t wash it off properly. Most beaches and resorts have showers.
- Limit your time. 15-20 minutes at a time is enough. Your body absorbs a lot of minerals, and staying in too long can make you feel weird.
Photographing the Dead Sea
The landscape is stunning—harsh, empty, beautiful. The blue water against the beige desert and rocky mountains makes for great photos.
I took most of my shots early in the morning when the light was softer. The classic “floating while reading a book” photo is harder to pull off than it looks. You need someone to help you balance, and you have to keep your hands dry.
Essential Tips for Visiting the Dead Sea
What to Bring
- Swimsuit
- Water shoes or sandals (the salt can be rough on your feet)
- Sunglasses and sunscreen
- Hat
- Waterproof camera case
- Towel
- Plenty of water
- Old jewelry (the salt can tarnish it)
What to Expect
- The water is very salty and can sting if it gets in your eyes or open cuts.
- Floating is effortless and fun, but limit your time in the water.
- The mud can stain clothing, so wear a swimsuit you don’t mind getting dirty.
- There are showers available at most resorts and public beaches to wash off the salt and mud.
- The high salt content can make the water feel oily or slippery.
Respecting the Environment
- Avoid using excessive amounts of mud.
- Don’t litter or leave trash on the beach.
- Be mindful of the fragile ecosystem of the Dead Sea.
- Choose eco-friendly accommodations and tour operators when possible.
Float at Sunset
If I could only pick one time to be in the water, it would be sunset. The sky turned pink and orange, and the whole scene felt surreal. Floating there, weightless, watching the light fade—it was one of those rare travel moments that actually lives up to the hype.
The Dead Sea is strange. It’s not a place you go to relax on a beach or swim laps. It’s an experience—a weird, salty, ancient experience. And I’m glad I finally checked it off my list.
