I set my alarm for 5:15am on my first morning in Petra. The hotel I’d picked was halfway up the hill in Wadi Musa, which meant a 20-minute walk downhill to the Visitor Center in the dark, on uneven stone, with a headlamp. I’d do it again. Where you sleep in Petra shapes every morning you have there.
Wadi Musa: The Main Base for Most Visitors
- Best for: First-time visitors who want convenience and options
- Vibe: Hilly, layered, tourist-facing
- Nightly rate: From around 25 JOD for budget guesthouses to 150β250+ JOD for luxury hotels
- Transport: Moderate. The Visitor Center is at the bottom of the hill. Hotels higher up require a taxi or a steep walk after long days on foot.
The town wraps around Petra‘s entrance in tiers, with hotels stacked at every level. At night, the restaurants along the main road are lit up and loud with the scrape of plastic chairs. During high season (March to May and September to November), streets fill fast. But you’re close to everything, and that matters when you’ve been hiking for six hours.
Tip
- Booking hotels near Petra entrance on the lower slopes is the best strategy if you want to walk to the Visitor Center. Upper-hill hotels have better views but cost you energy at the end of the day.
- Prices in Wadi Musa run higher than almost anywhere else in Jordan. Book in advance for peak season.
- Taxis between the upper town and the Visitor Center cost around 2β3 JOD each way. Factor that in if you plan early starts.
Little Petra (Siq al-Barid): The Quiet Option North of Town
- Best for: Travelers who want stillness and a lower price point
- Vibe: Remote, dry, genuinely quiet
- Nightly rate: From around 15 JOD at Bedouin Camps to 60 JOD for small guesthouses
- Transport: Difficult without a car. About 15 minutes north of Wadi Musa. You’ll need arranged transport to reach the main Petra site each day.
The air out here is different. Drier, cooler at night, and completely without the hum of a tourist town. I met a couple at a Little Petra (Siq al-Barid) Bedouin camp here who said the stargazing was the reason they extended their stay by two nights. Dining options are nearly zero outside your accommodation, so this works if you want the desert to be the whole experience.
Tip
- Ask your accommodation to arrange daily transport to Petra. A standard on-demand taxi from Wadi Musa is now typically 7β10 JOD per one-way trip.
- Bring snacks and water. There are no convenience stores nearby.
- Little Petra is free to enter and often completely empty in the early morning. Worth an hour before breakfast.
Bedouin Camps: The Most Distinct Way to Sleep Near Petra
- Best for: Travelers after something different from a standard hotel room
- Vibe: Traditional, quiet, stripped back
- Nightly rate: From 20β50 JOD, usually includes dinner and breakfast
- Transport: Difficult. Located outside Wadi Musa. A car or arranged transfer is essential.
The tents are made from heavy goat hair, dark inside even in daylight, and warm enough once the desert cools at night. Meals are communal, the food is simple, and by 9pm the only sound is the wind. It’s not for everyone, but travelers who choose it tend to talk about it for the rest of the trip.
Where I'd Go Back
I’d stay at a mid-range hotel on the lower slopes of Wadi Musa. Close enough to walk to the Visitor Center before sunrise, far enough from the main drag to actually sleep. If I had a second visit and more time, I’d add a night at a Bedouin camp near Little Petra at the end. The contrast is the point.